Mortgage Payment Calculator
A mortgage payment is four things, and most calculators show one. Principal and interest is what the loan costs; property tax, home insurance and — below twenty percent equity — mortgage insurance are what the house costs, and all four leave your account on the same day.
The gap between the two figures is routinely five hundred dollars a month or more, which is the difference between a comfortable purchase and a tight one. Enter the tax and insurance figures for the specific property below rather than accepting an estimate.
Calculate the full monthly payment
Property tax comes from the county assessor for that address. An estimate based on the purchase price can be badly wrong in either direction.
The four parts, and which ones move
Principal and interest is fixed for the life of a fixed-rate loan and is the only part a rate quote describes. Everything else moves.
Property tax is set by local authorities against an assessed value, and a sale frequently triggers a reassessment — which is why the previous owner's tax bill can badly understate yours. Insurance is repriced annually and has risen sharply in several states. HOA dues rise with the association's budget and can be raised by special assessment.
Mortgage insurance is the one part designed to disappear. On a conventional loan it typically ends once the balance reaches a set share of the original value, automatically at one threshold and on request at another — the rules differ by loan type, and FHA mortgage insurance frequently lasts the life of the loan regardless of equity.
Get the actual tax figure from the county assessor for that parcel, and a real insurance quote for that address. Those two are where budgets break.
What the down payment decides
Twenty percent is a threshold rather than a requirement, and treating it as one keeps people renting for years while prices move. A smaller deposit with mortgage insurance is a legitimate trade, and the insurance ends; the years spent saving do not come back.
What a larger deposit does buy beyond removing PMI is resilience. A loan at a lower share of value survives a market fall without trapping you, and that matters most for anyone who might need to move within a few years.
| Down payment | Effect |
|---|---|
| Under 20% | Mortgage insurance applies on a conventional loan |
| 20% | No PMI; the conventional threshold |
| Larger | Lower balance, lower payment, sometimes a better rate tier |
| Smaller | More cash retained — which is not nothing |
Fifteen years against thirty
A fifteen-year loan carries a higher payment, a lower rate and a total interest cost dramatically below the thirty-year equivalent. On paper it wins comfortably.
The argument against it is flexibility rather than arithmetic. A thirty-year loan with voluntary extra payments reaches a similar place while leaving the lower payment available in a bad year, and a mortgage payment you cannot reduce is the least forgiving fixed cost most households carry.
The honest version of the choice is whether you will actually make the extra payments. People who reliably do are better off on the thirty; people who will not are better off with the fifteen deciding for them.
| Term | Monthly payment | Total interest | Total repaid |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15 years | $2,613 | $170,398 | $470,398 |
| 20 years | $2,237 | $236,813 | $536,813 |
| 30 years | $1,896 | $382,633 | $682,633 |
Illustrative: $300,000 borrowed at 6.5%, the rate held constant across all three terms so the comparison isolates the term. Principal and interest only — tax, insurance and any mortgage insurance sit on top of every row.
Where the money goes, year by year
A fixed payment does not buy a fixed amount of the house. Interest is charged on the balance outstanding, so early payments are almost entirely interest and late ones are almost entirely principal — the payment never changes, but what it purchases does, continuously.
The first column below is the part that disappears. Read it against the third: in the opening year the balance barely moves, and it takes most of a decade before a year of payments retires as much principal as it pays in interest.
This is the mechanism behind two things that otherwise look unrelated — why selling within a few years leaves so little equity, and why an extra payment made early is worth far more than the same payment made late. Early principal is the expensive kind to buy.
| Year | Interest paid | Principal paid | Balance remaining |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | $19,401 | $3,353 | $296,647 |
| 2 | $19,177 | $3,578 | $293,069 |
| 3 | $18,937 | $3,817 | $289,252 |
| 4 | $18,681 | $4,073 | $285,179 |
| 5 | $18,409 | $4,346 | $280,833 |
| 10 | $16,745 | $6,009 | $254,328 |
| 15 | $14,445 | $8,310 | $217,677 |
| 20 | $11,263 | $11,491 | $166,996 |
| 25 | $6,864 | $15,890 | $96,912 |
| 30 | $781 | $21,973 | $0 |
Illustrative: $300,000 at 6.5% over 30 years, principal and interest only. Computed from the same formula the calculator above uses, so your own figures reproduce the same shape.
What a fraction of a point is worth
Rate shopping is frequently treated as a formality, on the reasoning that a quarter or half a point is a small number. Over thirty years it is not a small number, because it applies to a large balance for a long time.
The table prices one loan at several rates with everything else held constant. The monthly differences look modest and the totals do not, which is the argument for collecting more than one loan estimate — the paperwork costs an afternoon.
| Interest rate | Monthly payment | Total interest | Total repaid |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5.5% | $1,703 | $313,212 | $613,212 |
| 6% | $1,799 | $347,515 | $647,515 |
| 6.5% | $1,896 | $382,633 | $682,633 |
| 7% | $1,996 | $418,527 | $718,527 |
| 7.5% | $2,098 | $455,152 | $755,152 |
Illustrative rate points chosen to show the spacing, not a quote — mortgage rates move daily and this page does not. Get current figures from lenders directly and compare loan estimates, which itemise fees the rate alone hides.
Closing costs and the cash you need on the day
These are cash on the day, in addition to the deposit, and they are the reason a buyer with exactly the down payment saved cannot close. Your loan estimate itemizes them, and comparing that document between lenders is far more informative than comparing headline rates.
- Lender fees — origination, underwriting, rate lock, and any discount points.
- Third-party costs — appraisal, credit report, title search and title insurance, survey, recording.
- Prepaid items — the first year of home insurance, plus escrow deposits for tax and insurance.
- Per-diem interest from closing to the end of that month.
- Any transfer tax, which varies enormously by state and county.
Escrow, and why the payment changes
Most lenders collect tax and insurance monthly into an escrow account and pay the bills when due. The account is reviewed annually, and if the bills rose, the monthly collection rises to match — plus a catch-up for the shortfall already incurred.
This is why a fixed-rate mortgage payment goes up. The loan portion did not change; the escrow portion did, and a large insurance increase can move a payment by a couple of hundred dollars with no change to the mortgage at all.
Read the annual escrow analysis rather than filing it. It is also where you find an assessment appeal is worth making, since a successful one reduces the tax and therefore the payment.
What the lender approves is not what you should borrow
Underwriting tests a debt-to-income ratio against the loan program's limits, which are considerably more permissive than most households find comfortable. An approval is a statement that the loan is likely to be repaid, not that it will be pleasant.
Build your own number instead: total housing cost as a share of take-home rather than gross pay, with the tax and insurance figures from this calculator rather than an estimate, and with maintenance included — a commonly used planning figure is around one percent of the home's value each year, though older properties run higher.
Then check what remains against saving, retirement contributions and the emergency fund. A payment that leaves nothing for those is affordable in the month and not across the decade.
Frequently asked questions
Principal and interest, property tax, home insurance, and mortgage insurance where equity is below the threshold — commonly abbreviated PITI. HOA dues, where they apply, are usually paid separately but belong in the same budget.
It is designed to end once the balance falls to a set share of the original value — automatically at one threshold and on borrower request at another. FHA mortgage insurance often lasts the life of the loan regardless of equity, which is a real difference between the two programs.
The escrow portion, almost always. Property tax or insurance rose, the annual escrow analysis recalculated the monthly collection, and added a catch-up for the shortfall already paid on your behalf. The loan portion is unchanged.
Twenty percent avoids mortgage insurance on a conventional loan, but it is a threshold rather than a requirement. A smaller deposit with insurance that later ends is a reasonable trade against years of saving while prices move.
Fifteen costs far less in total; thirty leaves the lower payment available in a bad year and can reach a similar place with voluntary extra payments. The real question is whether you will actually make those payments.
Principal and interest come from the annuity formula — the balance multiplied by the monthly rate, divided by one minus (one plus that rate) raised to minus the number of payments. Tax, insurance, any HOA dues and any mortgage insurance are added on top; they are not part of the loan calculation at all, which is why a rate quote and a real payment differ so much.
Because interest is charged on the balance outstanding, and at the start the balance is at its largest. The payment is fixed but its split is not: the year-by-year table above shows the first year retiring only a few thousand dollars of a $300,000 loan, with the ratio inverting steadily until the final years are almost entirely principal.